When we first moved here, West Newton Square had three hardware stores, three drug stores, a health food store, a candy shop where the proprietors hated kids, a bank or two, and a breakfast place. And a movie theatre. And a dry cleaner. Not bad for a little village. But if you wanted to go out to a real meal, that required travel, at least to Newton Centre (anyone remember Modern Gourmet or Cafe Topo) or Waltham, which already was becoming the restaurant capital of Massachusetts (still has some truly fine places). While we've lost some of the oldies but goodies--the hardware stores, in particular, were incomparably good, our culinary options have radically improved to the point that we more than rival Newtonville and West Newton is a destination spot for good eating.
At the high end, of course, is Lumière, Michael Leviton's bright light, now celebrating its tenth birthday. It might be a place that some use as their go-to but for us it's for celebration only, which is why we were there again not long ago, thanks to a generous gift from a dear friend.
Let's start with this: it was snowing and we walked. That's nice, even if you're going out for popcorn. But it was snowing and we walked and we ended up with a truly fine meal. Sushi-lovers, we go for anything raw and in the fish family so we started with a New Jersey red fish prepared as the menu usually does, a tartare, with "avocado, ginger, cucumber and spicy soy-sesame vinaigrette." The fish changes according to what's available and if I were a proper restaurant critic I would have written down the variety but alas. Then we split a salad of (I could easily find this by googling their menu) arugula with persimmons, pomegranate seeds, pecans and manchego cheese with a vinaigrette, not too sweet since despite what I'm about to say in the next sentence, I don't really like sweet anything (except animals and people).
Having downed a couple of pieces of their bread by this point (and their amuse bouche, that little treat which I recall enthusing over but again...), I was about ready for dessert yet out marches the main, mine the scallops, which I took in the appetizer portion and couldn't finish, and my hubby (have you figured out the occasion yet?) took as the "Rain Crow Ranch Dry Aged, Grass Fed Beef Ribeye Steak with Cremini Mushrooms, Cipollini, French Fries and Balsamic-Beef Jus." Pretty darn delicious (I downed a couple of slices, faux-vegetarian that I am).
Because it was that once-a-year day, we ordered the special dessert, apple tart. I think I've got this right that the crust was made with sour cream as was the sorbet. Spectacular. Just go for the dessert and you'll be thrilled.
Our former next-door neighbors and friends, Andrea and Warren Pitts, owned the establishment that preceded Lumière in this location, Brighams. While I still find it hard to forget the plastic seats, the after-Franklin-School concert, and the very good ice cream, I am always grateful for Michael's hard work that has managed to keep this excellent place excellent. Congrats on your tenth, Michael.
